Message from Huaraz

A brief summary of events, all good!

 

After Ishinca and Toclluraryu, Aritza, Darwin, manual 2 porters, John and I commenced the Chopicalqui ascent.

We got to the moraine camp fine from the road and had the most glorious view of the horseshoe of 6000m mountains surrounding. Next morning off up to high camp where John and I discussed the high cloud forming. A change was imminent. Went to sleep early with heavy cloud coming in and occasional snow.

 

We arose at midnight and left a 1.15am. It was snowing quite steadily and bitterly cold. After about 4-5 hours of continual snow and fairly intense upward effort we got to a bergshrund for a huddle in very uncomfortable conditions. The decision teetered on returning or carrying on and Aritza took the lead to continue up. On we proceeded for a couple more hours by which time it was partially daylight. The snow continued unabated and the wind increased with altitude. There were sustained steep soft snow & ice pitches welcomed to keep warm.

 

At what must have been about 7.30 am we reached the summit col, with John and Aritza 30m in front of Darwin and I. This is pretty much the spot where the photo of the summit crux is on the website. At this point the snow was stinging coming in horizontal with visibility at times down to less than 10m. The wind was blustery and sharp. A short discussion was had and a shared view being- whats the point? I concurred. Considering the conditions and the somewhat military approach to the ascent, I reckon we climbed the equivalent of a 7000m mountain!

 

For a round trip of 12 hours back to high camp, we rested for a couple of hours and packed up and headed back down to moraine camp, another 2 hours for me.

I had serious issues with the snow balling up on my crampons, a matter <i will have to investigate further. After 3-4 step I was carrying 60mm of snow. Small round ball bearing size snow. Not a very gainly sight was my descent! Darwin was fabulous throughout.

 

The summit would have been good, but I equate mountains to be like fishing- sometimes they are there and sometime not. The climbing was superb, especially the steeper ice axe front pointing. We did 4-5 rappels down the steeper sections. As for my personal condition, I was concerned to be late on arrival and up to 4250 the next day. I seemed to cope very well with the altitude, something i was apprehensive about. The boys were amazed at my ability to adjust. I will do more on my core strength and look forward to 2-3 weeks with you guys in November. Maybe I have found my thing. B and M were great company and a deep mutual respect has evolved rapidly. B especialy as we climbed when mark was sick. I will catch upo with them in Aus and wind them up regurlaryy with pics of the boat! Any opportunity indeed.

 

Peru is just  amazing- Aritza is a gem, as are all his team. The people here are delightful, bar the odd taxi driver who i recognise as an Aussie concretor so am up to the task. All good. Had an extra day in Huaraz and went market walking and out to the hot springs on the local bus. Had a blast. Off up to Cuzco today and Aritza has given me some broad direction and a hotel etc. Even had a Pisco Sour! Ended up in a rowdy bar one night!!

 

 

Cheers

 

L